Today we took the 20 minute ferry north from Moresby Island to Graham Island. While on the ferry we met up with a pedestrian passenger who lost her luggage with the airline and is hoping it gets delivered before she starts her 8 day kayak trip tomorrow! Sounds familiar to J! He had the same thing happen on his 14 day kayak two years ago. His luggage didn't arrive, he paddled for a couple days using clothes he packed in his carry on bag and got his full bag delivered by Zodiac boat a few days after the kayaking trip started! We told her to hold out hope!
Once we arrived in Skidegate we drove north on the Yellowhead highway to Masset, BC. It is one of the few populated areas on Haida Gwaii in the north. In fact A Naval Radio Station was established in 1943 called CFS Masset. It was built during WWII to become a relay station for ship to shore communications.
We stopped at the Yellowhead Highway Zero Marker, showing where the highway begins on the west coast!
It was so very fortunate that we happened upon a space in Masset that had 3 totem poles in front. It looked like a Haida was giving a tour to a small group so we asked if we might join. The guide said yes for a donation we could join in on the tour. He talked knowledgeably about the carving of totem poles. Then he invited us into his 'tool shed' and I was stunned by what we saw! Inside the workshop, we saw amazing, huge works of art! A totem pole was in progress and huge wooden canoes were being worked on.
We learned our guide was Christian M. White, a Haida artist for the past 45 years. He began training at age 14, apprenticing under his father. Christian now trains other young Haida men and women traditional knowledge and skills. He would be one of two living Haidi artists who is exceptionally well known.
His work was amazing!
We did eat at an outdoor patio called 626 Cafe. Fish and chips were the order of the day for me! The halibut was amazingly fresh.
After lunch we drove to the northeast corner of Haida Gwaii to see Tow Hill.
It was very windy. J was trying to capture the waves being forced up through a blow hole!
We headed south and made our way back to Skidegate to stay at Jags for the night. It is the number 1 rated hotel in Skidegate! It is lovely, with limitations. No formal check in - they sent an email, so figure out your room number and walk inside! They did allow us to do laundry for $10. Done. We are about halfway through our trip to clean clothes are appreciated!
Tomorrow we catch the big ferry back to Prince Rupert - another full day event to cross back to the mainland.
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